A patio that stays put
Most patios that go wrong do it from the bottom up. Slabs dropped onto a skim of sand look fine for a summer, then the rocking starts, the joints open and the weeds move in. A patio that is going to last needs digging out properly, a compacted stone sub-base, every slab bedded on mortar, and a fall so the rain runs away from the house rather than towards it.
Round here that matters. Plenty of gardens across Stockton and the surrounding towns sit on heavy clay that holds the wet for days after a downpour, and a fair few back gardens have a slope on them. So the levels get worked out first: how far below the damp-proof course the patio has to finish, where the water goes, and whether you need a step down from the back door.
The order of work doesn't change much whatever you choose:
- Look at the garden and agree the plan. Size, shape, levels, drains, manhole covers and how you get from the house onto it.
- Dig out and build the base. Old slabs, turf and soil out; crushed stone in, compacted in layers.
- Lay, cut and point. Slabs bedded on full mortar to the fall, edges cut clean, joints filled.
- Tidy up. Clean down, waste away, and a word on when you can walk on it and put the table back out.
Picking the right finish
- Porcelain if you want something smart that barely needs looking after. It shrugs off stains and doesn't need sealing.
- Indian sandstone if you like natural stone with a bit of character. Every slab is a little different.
- Concrete slabs and paving if you want a solid, tidy patio without paying for premium stone.
- Resin-bound if you want a smooth surface with no joints, or a curved path that slabs would make a meal of.
If you can't decide, that's normal. Have a think about how much sun the garden gets, how often you'll clean it and roughly what you want to spend, and we'll go through the options with you when we come out.
Paths, steps and walls
A new patio usually sets off a few other jobs. A path to the shed or the gate. Steps where the lawn rises away from the house, which is common on the sloping plots in Ingleby Barwick and Wynyard. A low wall or raised bed to finish the edge.
- Garden paths and steps in the same stone as the patio, so it all ties in.
- Garden walls, from a couple of courses round a patio to retaining walls on a slope.
Why get in touch with Stockton Patios
- Free quote, no pressure. You get a quote and make your mind up in your own time.
- Local to you. Stockton town, Norton, Hartburn, Fairfield, Billingham, Thornaby, Ingleby Barwick, Yarm, Eaglescliffe, Sedgefield and Wynyard. See areas we cover.
- Honest about cost. We don't put up a made-up price list. We explain what decides the price of a patio and you get a figure for your own garden.
- Levels and drainage planned first. Each patio goes on a compacted sub-base with a fall away from the house, finished below the damp-proof course.
Questions people ask
Will I need planning permission for a patio?
Normally not. A patio at or near ground level in a back garden counts as permitted development. A raised patio or platform more than 30cm off the ground does need permission, and it's a different story for listed buildings. Parts of Norton and Yarm are conservation areas, so if you live in one, it's worth checking with the council first.
How long does a new patio take?
It depends on the size, the stone and how much needs digging out. A small, simple patio can be done in a few days, while a bigger job with steps or walls takes longer. You'll get a timescale with the quote.
Can you lay a new patio over the old one?
It can be done, but it's rarely a good idea. Going over the top lifts the level, often too close to the damp-proof course, and any movement in the old base comes through into the new one. In most cases the old patio comes up and a fresh base goes down.
How do I get a price?
Fill in the quote form or ring 01642 967519. We'll get back to you, come and measure up and give you a quote. It's free.